Day 3 - September 20 - Chiang Mai

After a long train ride, we arrive in Chiang Mai, a Thai city in the north of the country. This city’s economy is heavily dependent on tourism, which is obvious from one’s first moments. As the train pulled into the station, dozens of representatives of guest houses and hotels and trekking operators poured onto the arrival platform. It was a sea of people shouting “A/C – 400 Baht!” “Free Wifi… Free Wifi!” We made our way through the madness and got a map. As we started to think about walking into town and figuring out our trek and hotel accommodations, a woman came up to us and offered to take us into town for free if we checked out her hotel. She said, “If you don’t like it, leave. We don’t need you.” And we actually believed her.

We got to the car, a pick-up truck converted to a van with two benches lining the bed and a canopy. The same thing would be described as a “tuk-tuk” if there was no real cabin, if the passenger area were pulled by a scooter. Those are fun. Upon arriving at the Libra Guest House, we were told about a trek leaving the next day for a village near the Burmese boarder. After haggling, changing our minds, and negotiating for a departure the second day versus the third, we settled on the trek for the next two days at 4,000 Baht a head (about $114 each). The actual 2-day trek cost 2,500 Baht but we had to arrange separate transport back which was 1,500. And we took a room at the Libra Guest House. Turns out, the place was awesome and the Thai proprietors are a very nice family. A/C and hot water for 350 Baht a night ($10).

We also sent away for our Vietnamese visas (2,200 Baht for two day service). We thought it would be a good time to get those done while we were hiking.

All around the guest house were other similar places of varying quality. Some were showing Premiere League football and serving Sunday roasts, and, naturally, packed with Brits on holiday. Others had pool tables and were frequented by Aussies and Americans. The Happy Hippy House was full of stumbling kids of various ages and nationalities. They had a Happy Hippy Happy Hour from 3pm to 9pm. We skipped that. Instead, Robin and I went to cooking school. Yeah, we’re badass.

Cooking school was a non-event. We had fun, being the only two in class. First we went to a market and learned about spices and curries and coconuts. We also learned everything there is to know about fish oil. Have to say, most of this is not going to translate when I get back to Trader Joe’s. We made some good soup and curries, so dinner was good.

Back at the guest house, we made our way to the Night Bazaar. When someone in Thailand suggests you visit the Night Bazaar, say, no thanks, nicely yet firmly. They are filled with crap. Just tourist souvenirs and trinkets probably made in China. If I’m going to buy something, I want to support local artisans, not the subjugation of the local population to cheap trinkets.

All said, it was a good, productive day. I guess a verdict on today will depend on the trekking experience.